Previously on CharliExplores, Rene, my dear friend and travel partner extraordinaire,  and I experienced the incredible Great Migration!!! We learned about and witnessed the vast herds of wildebeests, zebras, impala and more, traveling hundreds of miles, sharing the same pastures and all on the same mission – to follow the rains and find greener pastures.  We viewed a living snapshot of this continuous cycle of the herds moving from the savannahs of the Tanzanian Serengeti  to the vast Masai Mara grasslands of Kenya to graze for a few short months. Then they will turn around to make the 600 mile trip back to the Serengeti to breed, calve, and prepare to repeat the cycle next year. We observed the stalking of the predators and the stampeding of the prey. We witnessed life on the plains of Africa. We, in fact, !!!WENT ON SAFARI!!!

Now, on to Cardamom House

Part of our Audley Travel package was a few days of R&R before heading home. We bid a fond farewell to our wonderful guide and friend, Moikai, and the Masai Mara National Preserve,

And headed to Vipingo – vēpēngō, Kenya. The small village and tiny airport of Vipingo are located on the beautiful Kenyan coast of the Indian Ocean, near the Kenyan/Tanzanian boarder. Upon our arrival, Rene and I were taken to Cardamom House – a lovely, eco-friendly resort.

To say that there was a distinct contrast, between where we had just spent the last seven days and this resort, would be the understatement of the millennium! We had just been dropped into the lap of luxury!!! 

This resort just opened at the beginning of the summer. It is built on a huge, ancient coral reef that now rises high above the adjacent ocean. The large, old trees and the surrounding  rock formations were beautifully incorporated into the resort’s design.

* Remember, you can tap on the photos to enlarge them.

By the time we checked in and toured this piece of heaven, it was just about sunset, and you know what that means in Africa – the lovely practice of Sundowners!!!

Before I go on, let me introduce you to Baraka, our waiter, driver, Swahili teacher, and our friend at Cardamom House. His funny sense of humor and delightful personality were the icing on this delectable Cardamom cake!

*A funny story – kind of: On our first exploration of the rooftop patio, we were greeted by the horrifying sight below, OMG!!!!!

Baraka was with us and rapidly explained that it was just rubber and this one, and others, were placed around to keep the monkeys away. A huge relief and good to know, but still, it was pretty unnerving!

The snakes were completely forgotten when Baraka served our wine Up on the Roof!

The day after our arrival at Cardamom House, we decided we had to do some souvenir shopping! There had been little opportunity to do so on safari, and time was running short! We drove to Kilifi a town about two hours away. The towns are few and far between.

Thanks to Baraka, we found just what we wanted and – because he was a daunting haggler – we got everything at a great price, YAY! Thank you, Baraka!

We got back in time for a walk along the gorgeous beach behind the resort.

The next day, we spent the afternoon at Kuruwitu Beach where we went snorkeling on a protected coral reef.

*Full disclosure: I did not have an underwater camera, so, sadly, the underwater photos in this section, though taken in the area we were in, are not mine.

Although these urchins are very cool looking, they feed on coral algae. “Why is that an issue?” you might ask. Well let me explain. Coral algae are essential for growing and maintaining healthy coral reefs. When areas above coral reefs are overfished by humans, urchins tend to over populate and consume large amounts of the coral algae thus depleting the area of this valuable natural resource and, in turn, destroying the reefs. *In areas where overfishing is not an issue, neither are the urchins. It’s all in the balance!

As in the Masi Mara National Preserve and Lewa Conservancy of Kenya and throughout Africa, great effort is being made to restore what man has nearly destroyed.

Coral preserves, protected areas where fishing is restricted or prohibited, are being established along the coral reef systems to help rebuild and restore the reefs to their former glory.

On our snorkeling expedition, Rene and I observed the reef restoration in progress – we got to see a Coral Nursery! YUP, they are a real thing!

Small pieces of coral are attached to concrete tacks and nestled in the netting which is stretched across the beds. Here the baby coral are fed and nurtured until they are ready to be placed along the reef. It takes two years for a piece of coral to grow 2 to 3 inches! It is a painfully slow process. However, coral nurseries and coral preserves all over the world’s oceans are diligently pursuing this mission! Restoring healthy oceans – well worth their efforts!

* A relevant note: Scientist estimate that 50% – 80% of the Earth’s oxygen comes from our oceans!!! Seems that healthy oceans are vital to our existence! Something to keep in mind.

Rene and I snorkeled and explored taking in all the glory of the reef until both of us were thoroughly spent.

And then it was time to relax and refresh at the small seaside Kuruwitu restaurant.

Later we dined under the stars – our farewell dinner at our heaven away from home.

* A frequently asked question about this trip is, “How was the food?” My response would be delicious, but if you are looking for a bit more detail, I would say, that a number of dishes made me think of Indian cuisine. But then there was a large variety with tuna salad wraps, ham and cheese omlets… an interesting and varried mix.

Below were a couple of the more unique dishes. The first is what they called a mango smoothie – more of a mango, kiwi pudding texture – filled with all kinds of seeds – dragon fruit seeds, almonds, sunflower and pumpkin seeds and others that I couldn’t identify, but the results were YUUUUUMMMMY!!! The second one is an octopus tower. Again, I do not know all that was in it, other than octopus, but there was not a crumb left on either of our plates, so that certainly speaks to the taste! One more thing I will say is that, generally speaking, the food was very healthy as well as detectable!

The next morning, we bid a very sad goodbye to our Cardamom House friends. This was the hardest farewell, partly because the staff here were all so fun and friendly, but also because it marked the end of our truly amazing journey.

Kwaheri (kwah hahrē) Kenya – Goodbye Goodbye, Kenya. We will never forget you!

*A final comment: I would like to thank Tom Wilkinson, our Audley Travel agent for his infinite patience during the year and a half planning and replanning of this trip. Covid greatly added to the difficulties of the trip, but Tom was determined to make it happen, to the point of having to completely change the entire itinerary two weeks before we were to leave! Cape Town shut down travel in and out so there was no way to get where we were supposed to go. Suddenly our whole trip was scrapped! Tom calmly said, we will figure it out. Two days later our entire trip was rewritten, rebooked, and back on schedule. Instead of going to South Africa and Victoria Falls, we were going to Kenya to experience the Great Migration. Thanks to his Hurculean efforts we did go on safari and had the adventure of our lives!! Tom went above and far beyond in making this trip happen, and Rene and I are eternally grateful to him. Thank you again, Tom Wilkinson and Audley Travel!

Thus ends the final chapter of Rene’s and my African Safari Adventures. We hope to travel again soon and hope you’ll join us when we do.

The Great Migration!!!

Previously on CharliExplores: We talked about Rene’s and my adventures at the Niabor National Reserve including it’s rustic setting, it’s infamous bucket showers, and the hippo pond and serenades.  You met our guide – the entertaining and very knowledgeable Moikai, and the regal, lady leopard in her tree. And don’t forget the jackals, hyenas, the star-spangled Masai giraffes, and the very substantial, yet noble, African elephants!

But Wait, there’s so much more!!!!!

I give you the much awaited Great Migration – the largest overland migration in the world!!!!

Rene and I were still at Naibor National Reserve for this event. We were so glad of that because Moikai, having first been a teacher and then a guide for 12 years, is an expert on the migrations and a wealth of knowledge! He was also very adept at getting  us up close and personal with the animals and the events! Thank you so much Moikai!

The phenomenon known as The Great Migration is a systematic movement of millions of animals from one feeding ground to another. It occurs twice a year, well actually, it is an ongoing dance throughout the year. In June, the herds begin to move across the savannah and grassland plains of Serengeti National Park in Tanzania toward the Masai Mara National Park in Kenya. There is no predetermined date for all of this, and it can vary by weeks or months. As I said, the movement usually begins in June with the slow movement of the animals continuing for months before the first crossings of the river begin usually in late September through November. However, the beginning and rate of this occurrence all has to do with weather and rainfall. This year had been very dry, so the migration began much earlier than normal. Rene and I were in the Masi Mara region in late July but were able to witness the first crossings of the year – what incredible luck for us!!!

Great Migration Facts: Large herds of animals migrate from Tanzania to Kenya and back each year with over half of those being wildebeests. Sizable numbers of zebras, and smaller numbers of gazelles, impalas, and eiland also participate.

A crossing event is when a large group of migrating animals gather in preparation for crossing the river, and then the whole group crosses at at the same time!  There are a few important details to note: 1. The crossings occur over a period of months.  2. When birds migrate, there are flocks of the same kind of bird flying together. However, in the Great Migration, there are different species of animals traveling the same routes and sharing the same pastures all traveling somewhat together.   3.When I say “large group” I would like to quantify that statement.  Over two million animals make this round trip trek annually!!!! That, my friends, is why it is called The Great Migration!!!

Let me introduce the actors in this grand production:

Zebras

Rene says wildebeests look like they were assembled by a committee that couldn’t agree on what it was supposed be. “Is it a bull? Is it a buffalo? Is it a cross between a horse and a mountain goat???”

LOL! It is, in fact, a type of antelope and there are an estimated 1,300,000 that travel between The Serengeti and Masai Mara regions during the annual migrations.

BUT there are also other significant actors in this play! With this smorgasbord of thousands spread across the plains, the predators in residence could not resist this delectable buffet.

One last predator adds a clear and present danger to this drama!

While the other predators prowl the tall grasses of the bush for their prey, the crocs have sole advantage in the rivers!

Crocodile facts: Average male crocodiles are between 12ft – 16ft in length and weigh between 500lbs -1,650lbs. However, specimens greater than 20ft in length and weighing 2,400lbs have been recorded, YIKES!!!! They can swim between 16 and 22 miles per hour.

Hang on to your hats!!!

Our second day in Naibor, Moikai greeted us at our usual 6:30AM game drive with an excited, “The herds are on the move!!!!!” We leapt into the jeep and left in a mad dash on a very crazy, rough, harrowing trek to a wide bush area near the river where we joined 30+ other jeeps on the same wild quest – we were going to see A CROSSING!!!

A crossing is a very bizarre ritual. As we waited for the herds to continue – the herds would stop and graze for a bit and then start again, Moikai explained that the zebras are, by far, the smartest of the migration animals and therefore are the natural leaders. They lead the herds and send scouts out to find the best places to cross the rivers, searching for crocodiles and other predators. If they don’t like what they see, they turn around and go somewhere else while the other migrators await their instructions.

When the zebras made a decision, they would head out with all of the animals, humans and otherwise, in tow.

As we sat watching and waiting for the animals to make the next move, Moikai told us more of the dynamics between the zebras and the  wildebeests. Evidently the zebras are not only smart but also cunning. They lead the herds to the most strategic spot in the river for the crossing, but then they stand back and wait. Eventually, a wildebeest will get impatient and take the first move charging down the river bank. All the wildebeest and others follow its lead. With the crocodiles waiting below, the zebras hang back for a bit letting the wildebeest and others blaze the trail. When the crocs are well occupied, the zebras make their way safely across… hmmmm, pretty sneaky!

We sat waiting for the animals to move again, near the river but not close enough. Jeeps and animals were just stopped.

Rene and I were standing on the back seat watching out the top of the jeep. The animal herds gathered, and gathered, and gathered then all at once they all took off stampeding toward the river with the jeeps in hot pursuit! Moikai yelled “Hold On!!!” 

As Moikai raced, jockeying with the other jeeps, to claim the best spot for viewing this crossing, Rene and I were laughing and holding on for dear life! Rene shouted over the roar, “I FEEL LIKE I’M IN A FREAKING INDIANA  JONES MOVIE!!!!!!” We were still standing on the seat being thrown about and showered in dust! It was crazy exciting and so much fun!!!!!

We reached the river and found a spot at the edge of the embankment! All the jeeps stopped and everyone watched, riveted, as thousands of wildebeests, gazelles, eiland, and zebras surged down the embankment, into, and across the river! WOW, WOW,WOW!!!

We watched as thousands of animals surged across the river and up the opposite embankment, and then it was done. As quickly as it started, it was over. Those herds and herds of animals were now on the other side and peacefully grazing as if nothing wild or crazy had just taken place. Incredible!!!

Then, as if on cue, all the jeeps started up and we began making our way back to the various safari camps. Rene and I were exhausted but so truly grateful for this amazing experience.

The next day we bid our sad farewells to Moikai and Naibor National Reserve. They, as well as Misheck and Lewa Safari Camp have our eternal gratitude for helping us make this trip a dream come true!

We will miss our Sundowners and the stunning sunsets in the bush, as well as all of the friends we made along the way!

Next stop, a little R&R in Vipingo. You won’t want to miss this! See you soon.

Please, leave comments if you are enjoying our journey.